Quite likely, one of the last things the bookbinding world needs — besides another introductory bookbinding manual — is a new specialized hammer. There are serviceable backing hammers commercially availaible for under $100 that just take a little filing of sharp edges and polishing of the face to work. Many people use old cobblers hammers that can be picked up for around $12 at flea markets. A froiture is arguably easier to use, and in most cases performs as well or even better. Sometimes, a little piece of wood and any old hammer will do. Many times, with older books, your fingers are the only tools you really need.
But who cares!
I wanted to make the best bookbinder's hammer I could, without consideration of final cost.
I originally wanted this to be some kind of "tool art". Then I recalled someone who told me anytime you put the word art after that of an object, there is a very good chance it is not art, but some kind of craft with pretenses to art. That said, it is very difficult for functional objects to be considered as Art. Still, there might be some kind of framework within tool-artifact-user interactions.
More practically, this hammer has a non-rusting stainless steel head, one face domed and one flat, with a slight texture to both faces which help move the paper, and a very comfortable applewood handle. The idea for the textured head came from an old brass hammer with a damaged and pitted head, that I use on leather. Somewhat counterintuitively, the textured surface marks the leather less, since the force is not concentrated at one specific spot, making it flat. The handle shape was derived from a jewelers chasing hammer and an old Hammond cobbler's hammer I own.
This hammer can be used for backing, sewing compression, beating down slips, hammering corners, or any time you need a little extra persuasion. Like trying to get a client to cough up a little more dough for a bookbinding project. This is a tool that could pay for itself the first time you use it. The polished cylindrical body of the hammer can be used froiture like to smooth out a spine.
I use a hatchet to rough out the American apple wood, and then refine the shape with a spokeshave. The hammer has an oval eye to prevent the handle from twisting, and a stainless steel wedge to secure it. The handle is sanded, lightly oiled, then polished to 3 microns. The resulting surface is incredibly smooth. Apple wood was traditionally used for saw and other tool handles.
The stainless steel head has a one inch diameter, and is roughly two inches in length, though this is balanced with respect to the length of the handle. The shape of the eight to nine inch long apple wood handles are all unique, but I make them generally to the shape depicted.
This hammer is very comfortable, well balanced, and aesthetically pleasing. But Art?